The Violinist Of Bergamo

The sky changed rapidly from sunny and blue to cloudy and slate-colored; one moment I was straddling the ancient wall which encircles Bergamo, casually flipping the pages of George Orwell’s Homage to Catalonia… Continue reading

Hitching Rides And Hailing Jesus In Southwestern France

I was on the verge of being stranded somewhere in the northwestern suburbs of Toulouse, dominated by half-finished housing developments and streets with cracked sidewalks and rough brambles poking through wire fences. I… Continue reading

Sunday Is Market Day In Toulouse

I realize today is not Sunday; it’s not even Monday. Such is life when your laptop is kaput. Let’s add my almost-new camera to the list! Before my camera lens decided it was… Continue reading

Roses and Cadaqués, Two Hidden Gems On La Costa Brava

It was just after sunrise and the buzzing noise of six or seven outboard motors echoed around the small bay of Roses, a quiet seaside town northeast of Figueres by about 30 minutes’… Continue reading

The Mundane, Michelangelo, And The Surreal In Dalí’s Birthplace

The heart of Figueres is dominated by mostly mid-20th century concrete buildings. In Spain, a city center devoid of 500+ year old edifices usually means that the Civil War left its bloody mark,… Continue reading

Getting The 5 Star CouchSurfing Treatment In Spain

I wasn’t expecting this at all. Considering all the crazy things I have experienced on this trip, you’d think that at this point virtually nothing could faze me. Dear reader, you would be… Continue reading

Jewish Roots & Medieval Vibes In Girona

Girona has been the perfect antidote for my ongoing bout with a lung infection I caught in Morocco and the unfortunate series of events that led to me being homeless on my first… Continue reading

Thrice Denied And Homeless In The Outskirts Of Barcelona

It was about three in the morning, the temperature couldn’t have been many degrees above freezing, and I was feeling a bit like Jesus. I mean that specifically in the sense that just… Continue reading

Finding The Silver Lining In Tangier

The first thing I do when I wake up is mix a white powder of antibiotics that tastes vaguely like pineapple with a heavy dose of aspartame and chalk and mix it with… Continue reading

Everyone Gets An X Ray, No One Gets A BMW: Chefchaouen By ER And A Question Of Wealth

I staggered off the bus from Rabat, my knees sagging from the fatigue of the cramped switchback ride that crossed the lushly forested yet rugged Rif Mountains. This was the last ride into… Continue reading